Interior painting

Time to get to work on the interior, the combination of scraping the old sound deadening bitumen sheets off, and the sandblasting did a good job of getting to bare metal. The only areas left to deal with was removal of the factory sealant.. Glad i did as there was some runs of rust starting underneath.

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Since i have previously used POR15 and had problems with it not stopping rust, i decided to give RustBullet a go. The advantage of Rustbullet is that it does not require as much surface preperation as POR, therefore no need to wash the car with metalblast, washing that off with water (which never sat right with me) prior to painting.

To Coat the interior with 3 coats with a brush, i ended up using 2.5L of the stuff

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The paint went on quite well with a brush, and flowed out nicely to stop most of the brush marks. I criss crossed with the brush to ensure good coverage, after the first full coat, it took about 1hr for it to dry enough for the second and third coats

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The final coat of Rust Bullet needs to sit for 24-48hrs to allow all the air bubbles to seep through the coats, but it then requires any top coat to be applied before 72hrs, otherwise a massive amount of extra prep-work is required. I decided to come back the next day to put a coat of epoxy on top.

The Next Day, i taped up any holes (in hindsight, i should have done this properly before the rust bullet but i just wanted to get it done- along with taping up any bolt holes and bolts in the bodywork), and sprayed white epoxy over the top. After 3 applications of Epoxy, it looks pretty good!!

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I haven’t had a chance to do a full inspection in the daytime (it was dark by the time i finished spraying), though i know the bolts in the firewall has excess RustBullet runs on the threads, and a small section in the rear (maybe the size of a 50c piece) obviously didn’t dry enough between coats of RustBullet which has left a big air bubble underneath.

I am planning to use the remaining Rust Bullet to spray inside the frame rails (followed by epoxy).. shame i haven’t found a place in Sydney that sells it, because shipping is relatively expensive, and i probably only need another 500ml.

After re-sealing,  I am tossing up either spraying underbody deadener on the floor pan then colour, or colour, then sound deadening sheets (dynamat or similar)

Underbody deadener

Since the epoxy went on so well, the next step was to spray the water based body schutz (AKA sound deadener / underbody deadener) using a specialised shutz gun.

It was nice being able to spray straight out of the can, especially when the cleanup consists of washing the gun out with water!

It took 3x 1L cans to do 2 coats of the underside (excluding the rear wheel wells as these will be cutup later for flares)

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Body Shutz

Not a major update unfortunately , but I finally got my hands on a paint-able underbody sealer that I can use on the bottom and inside of the car to insulate the interior from road noise and to provide added protection from stone chips.

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I haven’t been able to find much on the web about it, but it is white (which is important for a colour like red) and made by 3M, so it seems to fit the bill (I didn’t really like the idea of using septone products which you get at supercheap auto etc.). I bought 3x 1L bottles of it, hopefully that is enough for a couple of coats on the underside.

I am planning to spray this, followed by 2-3 coats of 2 pak colour (at this point, probably the current Nissan Red available on the GTR and 370Z) then probably 3 coats of clear.

I had hoped to get the interior sprayed and some of the underbody sprayed over the Australia day long weekend, but it rained all weekend.. typical..

First Spray – Epoxy Part 1 – Underside

After collecting the car a little while ago, it has been sitting dormant in bare metal protected only by a light coating of rust prevention and a garage.

Finally it was time to roll it out, sand it down and finally get it’s first coat of paint! A major milestone, and the hopefully the beginning of finally beating the mental hurdle I have around getting the bodywork done (wish I had the skills to do it).

I have decided to spray the bottom of the car (minus anywhere requiring body work), engine bay and interior with Dupont 840R white epoxy. I am forgoing using POR15 this time around due to it failing on a previous chassis.

This should hopefully protect these area’s by sealing them and save a bit of money in the long run when it does come time to paint. Due to the available time I have to work on the car, it will take a while to get it all done, unfortunately I haven’t been able to dedicate a week non-stop to it.

I began with the easiest part, the underside and then the engine bay. After lightly sanding the underside and engine bay and wiping down the areas with wax and grease remover. I loaded up the spray gun and put down 3 coats of epoxy.

The results turned out much better than i expected with no major problems (either runs or stray bugs)

I also spent some time removing the factory body sealer around the interior firewall and floor in preparation for spraying the interior, but finishing that will have to wait for another day.

Sandblasting progress update

The sandblaster had been delayed with some equipment failures and general bad weather, but got an update today with some pictures. The shell is completely stripped along with the doors and front quarter panels. Only the bonnet and boot lid remain to be done.

The majority of rust seems to be around previous (rust) repaired areas, and looks like a little bit of accident damage in the rear drivers side quarter. Spoke to the body shop next door for them to quote on fixing it up, he seems to think that the shell is actually quite good and finding a better one would be difficult, but there are a number of areas to be attended to.
I had originally planned just to get it epoxy primed and the underside/engine bay painted.. but a quote from another local vehicle restoration shop proved quite expensive.. so for now it looks like it will be coming home in a light anti-rust coating

Sad News

Today is a very sad day.

One of my best mate passed away this morning after a 7 month struggle with cancer (he fought right to the end!). Mark was like a brother to me and never once hesitated when i came up with a wacky plan of buying ANOTHER 240K (all of which lived at his house!). we have spent the past 8 years of our friendship working on a 240K of some sort, from the charity rally car to the current one.

The memories that we shared are priceless and i will miss him as will his and my family as well as all those who know him.

Off to the sanblaster

The 240Z shell has sold (and only in 2 days), so i decided to “re-invest” the money into the 240K.

My wife and I decided it would be a good time to get the 240K sandblasted and epoxy coated.

I had been in contact with Cam at Imperial Blasting (up in Beresfield, near Newcastle), and in conjunction with their next door neighbour Kranky Kustoms, they are going to rush the job through for me, getting the shell and bonnet completely sand blasted and epoxy primed, then paint the underside and engine bay in 2012 Mercedes-Benz Mars Red

To get the car to the blaster, i had to build up a set of wheeled skids that clipped between the underside rails. Once these were made, and the car was off the rotisserie, the car was wheel-able once more (though i personally think 16″ wheels were better looking). It took a bit of effort to get the car down the driveway (an electric winch helped) and onto the trailer (especially doing it all unassisted).. the car spent a little time resting on the rear  spare wheel well (hopefully not too much damage) due to the attack angle of the trailer vs the driveway slope – should have made the skids bigger.. but they did work and didn’t collapse as i was expecting them to at any second

Luckily the car made it to Newcastle in one piece. Hopefully i should hear back in the next few days on the progress and get some update pictures up.

Project slowdown

Hi Guys,


Just a quick update.. the last couple of months, things have really ground to a stop. Unfortunately my partner in car crime has been really sick in hospital and it has put a dampener things.

I have decided to sell the 240Z (currently advertised on viczcars and will probably makeing  it’s way to ebay soon) to make a little more room as i will need to relocate the 240K sometime soon.

Hopefully it sells quickly, but it will be really sad to see it go.



stripping the Underbody deadener

Managed to get a day off work today,

so spent the day sitting in the shell, chipping off the factory applied underbody deadener out of the foot wells on the car.  Easiest method was with a small thin chisel and a hammer until direct sunlight on the deadener started to make it a bit gooey.  Managed to chip of all the drivers side, and half of the passenger side, revealing a little surface rust on the bare metal underneath where water had obviously gotten under pockets of the deadener sheets.

Also tried chipping off the black deadener mat from the inside of the firewall, man that is stuck on well! could only chip off the areas that had a bubble from the formed metal underneath, anywhere flat looks like it is stuck on there for good! i did find a large pocket of water and a bit of surface rust in the centre “X” stamping below the mat though.. obviously it made its way there after the pressure cleaning from the week before.

spit roasted 240K

After a good couple of weekends of rain, we finally managed to get the 240K mounted onto the rotisserie, and after a small wheel failure (one of the wheels on the stand bent and snapped off as we tried to get it into the garage) we were finally in the position to try and get it onto it’s side.

The instructions for the rotisserie asked us to count on the large 3 foot threaded bolt at the top of the rotisserie to adjust the car’s centre of gravity up and down the stand, somehow I just couldn’t trust this with a 500kg shell! so instead we dug out the large trolley jack and a couple of blocks of wood to make the adjustments.

After a couple of trials (guesses) at where the car’s COG would be, we finally found a setting that allowed the car to rotate 90 degrees without too much effort. The rotisserie has 2 large bolts on each end which clamp down on the main rotating cylinder (without any holes to “lock into”), again, we didn’t trust this so used a long piece of wood (and a couple of metal bars) to wedge the car and arm in place.

It was a weird sight, seeing the car set up this way, but there was no doubt, it gives awesome access to the underside! the Plan was to strip the underside back to bare metal and epoxy prime, but the bottom of the car (bar some grease around the transmission) is as immaculate as the top side is. Instead, we will give the underside a good scrub to get rid of any grime, then give it a good etch and then epoxy prime it.

Mark also started scraping off some of the previous bog work off the rear. The car appears to have been repaired well for rust previously (there is a lot of good metal under it), though it doesn’t appear to have had any rust converter put on it. The majority is good, though bubbles of rust have started again in some of the usual areas… but no where near as much as i have seen in other cars. While we were removing the last of the remaining rubber bungs, we also cut out the battery tray. The underside of which, showed no rust at all, another good sign of this car’s past!

One of the most tedious areas to strip by hand is the engine bay. I swore last shell that i would never do it again however… here we are!!

Overall, It was good to actually have some validation for my decision to sell the old 240K!